Meet the maker:

Des Rusk - Longform

Des Rusk has spent decades at the centre of New Zealand fashion as a designer, educator, and industry leader. Now he is doing something entirely his own. We sat down with the founder of Longform to talk merino, considered design, and what it means to build a brand outside the rules.

The Origin Story

You have spent decades in New Zealand fashion as a designer, educator, and industry leader. What did all of that experience teach you that eventually led to Longform?

It is a mixture of backing the knowledge I have acquired across different areas, and also being curious and open to new lessons. I felt confident when starting Longform that I had seen and experienced many battle wounds over my career, so I was able to go into it with my eyes wide open to the challenges that come with starting a clothing brand.

Was there a specific moment where you decided the industry needed something different, or did Longform come together more gradually than that?

It brewed for a little while, mainly because I had loved and worked with merino for many years, but there was not a brand that spoke to me in terms of design and aesthetics. Merino has mostly been associated with performance apparel or fully fashioned knitwear, but it is a fibre you can wear every day, so I wanted to create a brand that worked within that context but started from a fashion starting point. I had always wanted to get back to designing again and it felt like now was the right time to take the leap.

The name Longform is very deliberate. Can you talk us through what it means to you and what it signals about how you approach making clothes?

It fits the brand so well. Taking cues from longform copy and content, it speaks to a slower, more deliberate and considered process and output. I have seen so many clothes and collections over the years. They come so fast and so wide. I am taking a slower approach to designing and producing new styles, with a focus on the raw material and seeing how we can constantly improve and push the boundaries of what we can create with merino wool.

You built a brand outside of the traditional seasonal fashion calendar. How do you think about time differently as a result of that decision?

There is still some working out to do as it is a new way of working, but it has really allowed me to think more deliberately about what we are creating. The fabrics we work with take time to develop and get right, which speaks to our brand values and creative process. There is obviously a balance in ensuring we are working closely with our retail partners on their schedules, but it comes back to creating pieces that can endure trends and fit in when it works.

The Craft and the Material

Merino wool is the foundation of everything Longform makes. What is it about the material that keeps drawing you back to it?

It has long been coined a super fibre, and for good reason. It has amazing natural properties. Breathability, temperature regulation, odour resistance, and it is incredibly durable and easy to care for. It is a resource grown in nature and has been battle tested before any yarn has even been spun. And there is also so much you can actually do with it in terms of different fabrications, which I am looking forward to exploring further.

ZQ certification is a non-negotiable for Longform. Can you talk about why the sourcing and supply chain matters as much to you as the finished garment?

Having worked on the other side of things in textile sourcing for the last thirteen years, I have seen how convoluted and wasteful the textile industry can be, and it is very hard to truly know the entire supply chain of a lot of fabrics. ZQ certification is the most stringent and wide-ranging certification at a fibre level for wool. It ensures not only that the sheep are treated with the utmost care, but also that the highest quality wool is achieved and selected for use. We have a couple of new programmes that will push this even further and one that adds a new dimension to what we are doing. Every fabric we have made will carry the appropriate certification. This is a combination of ensuring quality and producing products in the best possible way.

Walk us through what the design process looks like for a Longform piece. Where does it start and how do you know when it is finished?

It largely starts with the fabric. I am trying to build pieces that have longevity, both in quality and in design, and so much attention goes into the fabric. You can buy merino garments of all different qualities, but it is the quality of the fabric that is the base of everything. From there it is about what story I want to portray through shape and colour, then honing in on details and how they function.

You talk about wanting every Longform piece to become someone's favourite everyday garment. How do you design for that kind of longevity rather than just immediate appeal?

It is really about starting from classic pieces and pushing those to a new place. Not every piece will appeal to everyone, but Longform is about creating pieces that can be worn in a variety of situations. The quality of the fabric helps to ensure longevity. There is a balance of having pieces that draw the necessary emotion needed for someone to invest in one of our garments, mixed with core elements that give it longevity. There is space for play within Longform, as long as we are sticking to our overall mission.

What does a piece have to do to earn its place in the Longform range? Is there anything that has surprised you by making the cut, or something you loved that did not?

Each piece needs to have longevity. Whether that be something that will sit in our evergreen offering or pieces that will have limited numbers, it needs to be something that can work beyond one season. The brand's DNA speaks to this so it is constantly front of mind when creating new pieces. Our Foundation collection was pretty tight, so there were definitely some pieces that did not make the cut, mainly some more playful pieces. But they will hopefully earn a spot in releases to come.

The Vision and the Future

New Zealand has a deep and serious relationship with merino. Do you feel a responsibility to that heritage, and how does Longform sit within it?

Definitely. We constantly punch above our weight on the world stage and that is no different with merino. We grow some of the finest and best quality merino in the world, and our growers are doing amazing things in terms of how they operate their farms and care for their sheep, which ultimately results in a high quality product that is currently in very high demand. I feel the responsibility to fly the flag for New Zealand merino as much as we can. With Longform positioned in a different category to typical merino brands, hopefully we help to get NZ merino through some doors it might not have otherwise entered.

Longform is now available at Superette. What does that relationship mean to you and how does it fit into where you want to take the brand?

It is huge for Longform, and for myself personally. I have known Rickie and James for many years and have loved watching them grow Superette into a major force within the fashion and lifestyle landscape over a long period of time. They are great people who are great at what they do and have a wonderful eye for brands, so it is very exciting to be part of their stable. Retail partnerships are such an important piece for Longform. We have been fortunate that our initial stockists are stores that invest in the brands they represent, more than just shelf space, and Superette are definitely doing that. To also sit alongside some of the brands within Superette is definitely a great fit for where I want the brand to be and the company that we keep.

What do you hope someone feels the first time they wear a Longform piece?

Aside from obvious comfort, my hope is that anyone who invests in one of our pieces feels a quiet confidence and a sense of ease. I also hope they feel satisfied. That they have a piece they know will last and that they can interpret within their own wardrobe, in their own individual way.

If Longform is still around in twenty years, what does it look like?

I want to expand Longform to be more than just a clothing brand. Merino truly is a lifestyle and there are many places I want to take it in terms of product, experiences, and how that fits in with everyday life. This also includes having our product and the benefits of merino fibre in as many corners of the earth as we can. And if we are still around in twenty years I would also hope that we have made a seriously positive impact across all of our touchpoints, from how we produce our products to the people we employ and work with and also the wider community.